AN OVERVIEW OF MY RESEARCH
My work focuses on understanding how coastal systems respond to environmental change, and how this understanding can be used to support coastal resilience, adaptation, and risk management.
I work across a range of applied coastal science projects investigating coastal erosion, geomorphological change, environmental hazards, and nature-based approaches to coastal resilience. My research combines field monitoring, remote sensing, numerical modelling, and environmental analysis to better understand how coastlines evolve under the influence of storms, sea-level rise, sediment dynamics, and human disturbance.
A major focus of my current work is the response of historically modified coastlines to extreme events. Through the UKRI-funded Legacy Wastes in the Coastal Zone programme and a subsequent NERC Urgency Grant, I lead geomorphological investigations into erosion and contaminant remobilisation along the Durham spoil coast, using LiDAR, remote sensing, coastal imaging systems, and field monitoring to quantify coastal change and environmental risk. This work contributes directly to understanding how storm-driven erosion can mobilise legacy pollutants and influence future coastal management strategies.
I am also involved in research examining nature-based approaches to coastal adaptation and resilience. Through the DEFRA-funded Stronger Shores programme, our work investigates how marine ecosystems such as kelp can attenuate wave energy and contribute to coastal protection under changing environmental conditions.
Alongside this work, I have extensive experience in coastal hazard research, particularly relating to rip currents, surf-zone processes, and operational hazard forecasting. Working with Surf Life Saving New Zealand, I have contributed to development of coastal hazard forecasting systems that translate environmental observations and hydrodynamic analysis into operational tools supporting public safety and lifeguard decision-making.
Across all of these projects, I am particularly interested in the interface between coastal science and practical decision-making. Much of my work is undertaken in collaboration with government agencies, environmental organisations, operational partners, and consultancy teams, with a focus on generating evidence that can directly support coastal management, resilience planning, and hazard mitigation.
Research Areas
Coastal Resilience & Climate Adaptation
- Coastal erosion and shoreline change
- Coastal response to storms and extreme events
- Climate adaptation and resilience planning
- Nature-based coastal protection
Coastal Hazards
- Rip currents and surf-zone dynamics
- Coastal flooding and storm impacts
- Hazard forecasting and risk communication
- Public safety and operational coastal risk management
Coastal Monitoring & Environmental Change
- LiDAR and coastal imaging systems
- UAV and remote sensing applications
- Geomorphological monitoring
- Sediment transport and coastal evolution
- Environmental risk and contaminant mobilisation
Numerical Modelling & Coastal Processes
- Hydrodynamic modelling
- Wave transformation and attenuation
- XBeach, Delft3D, and SFINCS applications
- Coastal process interactions across complex environments
Collaboration
I am always interested in discussing opportunities for collaboration relating to coastal resilience, environmental monitoring, hazard assessment, and applied coastal science.
If you are interested in collaborating, developing a project, or discussing postgraduate research opportunities, please get in touch.

Dr Seb Pitman
Pictured here with a drifter for a rip current study in New Zealand, 2015. Photo credit: Carey Conn.
MY RECENT PUBLICATIONS
BEACH SAFETY
Our new study wanted to understand a little more about why we’re seeing 700+ rip current related rescues each year in New Zealand. We found up to 78% of people were unable to spot the rip current that was directly in front of them at the beach.
When rips get taught in schools, it is generally through the use of photographs. We found that 2/3 of the people that could spot a rip in a photo still could not do it in real life – our approach to education needs to change.
RIP SPOTTING
JANUARY 2021
Here’s a sample of the news coverage from our rip paper
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Take a look at the video above to hear us argue for a modernisation of beach safety education to maximise the impact and reduce drowning.
Full story at the link below.
COASTAL RESPONSE TO STORMS & SEISMICITY
This paper uses Ground Penetrating Radar to investigate historic evolution of mixed sand gravel progradational beach plains.
We postulate that one observed feature may allude to rapid progradation sequences following major earthquakes in the area.
GRAVEL BEACH CUSPS
This paper outlines our UAV-based approach to the study of beach cusps on composite and coarse grained beaches.
Using this method, we can explicitly link morphology of the cusps to the surface sediment distribution (i.e. gravel or sand), which is crucial for understanding cusp evolution.
RIP CURRENT SAFETY
#SciComm
This paper was a great experience! This is a science communication piece, where our article was peer reviewed by young people.
We are trying to bridge the education gap around surf safety, and in this piece, we discuss how to spot rip currents and why they are dangerous.
SEA SAFETY
This paper focuses on the impact of wearing a lifejacket when things go wrong at sea.
94 % of casualties in a life threatening situation at sea survived when wearing a lifejacket.
RIP CURRENTS
In this paper, we look at the morphological and hydrodynamic controls on rip current circulation.
The currents were more likely to remain in the surfzone (i.e. were safer for swimmers) when waves started to break on the outer sandbar.
COASTAL RESPONSE TO EARTHQUAKES
Here is an excellent poster by one of my students, detailing how the mixed sand gravel beaches around Kaikoura have responded to the 7.8 magnitude earthquake in Nov 2016.
Featured
Keeping Kiwis Safe This Summer
This summer, through a partnership with Surf Life Saving NZ and TSB, an active part of my research concerns rip current and beach safety here in New Zealand. Have you seen the #RelaxRaiseRide campaign yet?